The Colors of the Night: Jean Paul Gaultier’s Vampiric Autumn/Winter 2014-15
The enfant terrible of French fashion has always challenged and shocked with his singular collections—and this Autumn/Winter collection for 2014-15 is no different, with Jean Paul Gaultier projecting a glamorous world with the combined sensual atmospherics of vampire films and European folklore.
Gaultier is known for his riotous medley of colors and textures, but in this collection he chooses a deliberately restrained palette that reflects the vampiric inspirations—all the colors of the night: the red of blood, the flash of gold, the pure white of the victim and the pitch-black depths of midnight.
Gaultier's elaborate garments and fantastic creations channel a vision of gothic resplendence: oversized mesh-net caps encircle the body like delicate spiderwebs, priestly collars constrict the neck atop narrow-backed gowns. Imposing vampires perch on high, dangerous heels. More than simply a reflection of vampiric troupes, the collection acknowledges that these vampires did not just live in baroque European castles but rather moved amongst us, stalking our cities in the deepest of our spring and summer nights. Thus these louche vampires march down the runway in deep-black jogging suits and flannel-patterned pants—street vampires, but never having lost their sense of extravagance or danger. The luxurious and the ethereal fuse to dazzling effect in a haze of dense black velvets, furs and flashes of Bohemian crystal, a complex tour de force of haute couture with the usual fine details and level of workmanship that we have come to expect from Jean Paul Gaultier.