A Minimalist Purity at Trussardi
At first glance, the monochromatic nature of Trussardi’s autumn/winter collection might be seen as solemn and drained of vibrancy. However, the intention of designer Gaia Trussardi was not to show flamboyancy, but to draw attention to details such as the craftsmanship of the leather itself—which hearkens back to the fashion house’s origin as a notable leather glove maker.
“We are overexposed to too much information and products and stimulation for excitement,” said Trussardi in an interview with NOW FASHION. “You lose track of the beauty of the essentials of how a garment could be beautiful and nice with just some small details like stitching.”
Across a palette of taupe, forest green and grey, stood a collection of Napa leather camisole dresses, heavy military pea coats, peg pants, pencil skirts, abstract patterned-sweaters, and utilitarian oxford shirts. As stated by the designer herself, the dresses exhibit a purity and vulnerability through the clean-cut architecture of the lingerie-inspired clothing. When paired with the shearling-trimmed military pea coats, the women are “protected under a hard shell”, which drives home the concept of a woman’s fragility. This theme is complemented with the models’ pale clean make-up, and dark wine lipstick, topped off with quasi-romantic hairstyles of tousled ponytails.
A notable look is a camisole dress of metallic copper which offers subtle contrast against the largely minimalist collection. Women in the corporate world will especially take a liking to the leather separates of suits and slacks. Trussardi has done a classic job of paying homage to their utilitarian heritage, while also catering to the concept of femininity.