Lemaire’s Final Bow at Hermes Spring/Summer 2015



For his final collection as Hermès’ artistic director, Christophe Lemaire paid a simplistic tribute to his childhood in Senegal. Consisting of long tunic dresses, relaxed silhouettes and the occasional Ankara print, it was both an exhibition of Lemaire’s laissez-faire perspective and the luxurious, yet accessible appeal of the fashion house itself.

“There is a very dry heat, earthy tones, very matte whites, matte textures, and these prints as well…that are really like African prints,” Lemaire said of his collection. “Then these colors, which bit by bit, become quite solar. An idea as well of looseness of movement, freedom of movement and comfort.”

Belted waistcoats and peplum dresses with a dropped hem also made an appearance, but the sandy palette gave them an air of effortlessness without the typical pomp and circumstance that comes with such pieces. The desert, “solar-like” theme, makes the finality of it all come full circle.

However Lemaire, spoke quite fondly of his upcoming departure from Hermès. “It’s the last season, but it’s done with serenity, and with feeling, even like a kind of accomplishment. There isn’t any business on either wide. It was a mature, considered decision that we thought about… There was the difficulty of developing my brand, while successfully carrying out the two things at the same time… it started to be a bit everywhere at once.”

Lemaire has moved on to develop his own label. Considering his artistic and financial success with Hermès, one can expect from him clothes that are simple, stylish and liberating.
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